Japan had been on our family bucket list for years, and after spending 12 days across Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Nara, and Hakone, I finally understand why people keep going back. From Tokyo’s bright lights and themed cafés to Kyoto’s peaceful streets, Osaka’s food scene, and relaxing onsens in Hakone, every stop felt completely different from the last.
There were peaceful temples, busy train stations, magical cafés, incredible food, tiny streets filled with surprises, and some of the best desserts we’ve ever had. And honestly? Japan was even more family-friendly than we expected.
And of course, the food deserved its own itinerary. We planned entire days around ramen shops, dessert cafés, bakeries, and shopping… and honestly, no regrets.
As I shared some of our food adventures in Japan on Instagram, many of you asked me for the full itinerary. So here’s a full recap of our Japan itinerary and some tips in the order we traveled, along with the restaurants, desserts, and experiences we genuinely loved.
If you want to see the amazing meals we enjoyed and the unforgettable cafe and desserts, check them out on Instagram.
Day 1-3 Tokyo: The Perfect Introduction to Japan
We planned our trip so we had 3 days in Tokyo at the start, then visited other cities, and ended the trip with the last 3 days in Tokyo.
Day 1: Arrive in Tokyo
We landed at Narita Airport in the evening and checked into theHyatt Regency Tokyo. There are limousine bus services at the airport that take you to the city, and they luckily stop at our hotel. We did not do anything this evening as the kids were super tired after the long flight, so we ordered room service and called it a day.
Japan Travel Tip: Jetlag
As we are jetlagged and naturally waking up very early during the first 3-4 days, we started our sightseeing early in the morning and visited the popular spots before the big crowds arrived. It made such a huge difference — not only did we get calmer experiences and much better photos, but we could also wrap up the day earlier before the kids got completely exhausted from all the walking.
Day 2: TeamLab Plants
We knew the kids would wake up early from jet lag, so we planned to enjoy breakfast at the hotel and then head to teamLab Planets. We had made bookings for this, and it completely lived up to the hype. Kids had the best time, and it was the most memorable part of their trip.
Right outside, we ate lunch at Vegan Ramen UZU. We enjoyed a warm bowl of ramen in a dark, immersive art space, while digital artwork moved around us, a feeling that was almost meditative. The family unanimously agreed that this was the best ramen of the trip.
Then we kept it a relaxing evening with a visit to the Starbucks Reserve and meeting my cousin who lives near Tokyo. We walked along the Meguro River, viewing some cherry blossoms, and enjoyed dinner at a local Chinese restaurant in Shibuya. We also got to see the chaotic Shibuya Crossing.
Japan Travel Tip: Taxi
You might be wondering why we chose taxis instead of trains for getting around. With kids in tow, we found it saved a surprising amount of time by skipping the walk to and from train stations, especially for short distances. For a family of four, the taxi fares felt very reasonable and made the whole trip feel a lot more relaxed and efficient.
Day 3: Tokyo Culture, Temples & Gardens
The next day was a culture day in Asakusa. We took the train there and walked to Tokyo’s oldest temple, Sensō-ji, where the giant red lantern, drifting incense, and buzzing crowds filled the area with an unforgettable energy. Inside, the glowing golden altar felt peaceful and timeless, and we loved wandering through the temple grounds. Kids loved drawing the omikuji fortune slips — such a fun and uniquely Japanese tradition.
Just outside the temple, we walked through the Deboin garden and Nakamise Shopping Street, with lots of wonderful snacks and shopping options.
We tried the Age3 strawberry-and-cream fried sandwich, which was delicious. Then we walked around, and the kids loved to play the fun fishing game at the local shops. There was one right opposite the Asakusa Kagetsudō Melon Bread. Everyone loved the warm melon bread filled with cold ice cream.
Then we walked over to Suzukien Asakusa Matcha Gelato, as this one was not to be missed. They had amazing matcha gelato, as well as other varieties.
From there, we took a cab to go to Nezu Shrine. We were lucky to visit during the famous Azalea Festival, when thousands of vibrant pink and purple azaleas covered the hillside, making the shrine grounds feel even more magical alongside the rows of red torii gates and traditional wooden buildings.
From here, we took a taxi to the Kabashiki kitchen district. It felt like stepping into a food lover’s paradise, with endless shops selling everything from professional-grade knives to those incredibly realistic plastic food displays. We loved wandering the street and browsing all the quirky kitchen tools and ceramics. I did get excited and bought a bunch of ceramics.
Then we took a taxi to go to Tokyo Skytree. We had a booking for 5 pm, so we could see the views during the day and after sunset. Then we just had dinner at Din Tai Fung at the mall (Note: The menu is quite different from what we have in the USA).
Japan Travel Tip: Luggage
We decided to stay 3 days in Tokyo at the start of the trip and 3 days at the end, but at the same hotel. This was intentional so we could leave a couple of our large suitcases at the hotel, and not carry them with us when we took the train to Kyoto and Osaka. We mostly took smaller carry-on luggages which even kids could easily drag.
Day 4 Hakone: Mt. Fuji Views, Onsens, Relaxation
The next morning, we had an early breakfast at the hotel and took a scenic Romancecar train to Hakone. This train leaves from Shinjuku Station and goes to Hakone-Yumoto. After the nonstop energy of Tokyo, Hakone felt calm and peaceful.
We took a taxi and checked into our hotel, Aura Tachibana, and this ended up being one of the most memorable hotel experiences of the trip. They contacted us beforehand to check our diet preferences and made a special vegetarian dinner and breakfast for us. The private onsen experience made it feel extra special.
After leaving our luggage at the hotel, we took their shuttle back to the Tozan bus stop, where we got the Hakoen Free Pass, which includes all the travel for the day. Then we enjoyed the best tiramisu and soft-serve at Hakone Teramisu.
We took the bus to Lake Ashi, where we visited the peaceful Hakone Shrine, tucked into the forest with its iconic red torii gate standing right in the water — one of the most photogenic and serene spots of the day.
Then we had a light lunch at Bakery and Table while taking in the lake views. Then we took the famous pirate ship cruise, which gave us stunning views of Mount Fuji (on a clear day, it’s magical).
From there, we reached the iconic Hakone Ropeway, gliding over steaming volcanic vents in Owakudani, where the black eggs and dramatic landscape made the whole experience feel surreal.
Then we took the cable car and the train back to the Yumoto station. Kids enjoyed the best pizza at 808 Monsmare. Then we reached the hotel and enjoyed the authentic 8-course Japanese dinner experience. Finally, the adults got some time to relax at the private onsen in the hotel.
Day 5-7: Kyoto: Temples, Culture, & Food
We enjoyed a 5-course vegetarian Japanese breakfast at the hotel in Hakone, then took their shuttle to the train station to head out to Kyoto.
Day 5: Temple and Okonomiyaki
We stayed at the Hyatt Place in Kyoto. We checked into the hotel and headed out to lunch at Menbaka Fire Ramen, where they literally light the ramen on fire in front of you. Equal parts dinner and entertainment.
Then we took a taxi to Ryozen Kannon and Kōdai-ji Temple. The 24m-tall statue of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, against a lush backdrop of the Higashiyama mountains, is stunning. The kids enjoyed writing their wishes and hanging them there.
Then we walked to Kōdai-ji, with its beautifully maintained gardens, bamboo grove, and quiet temple pathways creating such a calming atmosphere.
From there, we walked towards the iconic streets Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka. On the way, we stopped for coffee and affogato coffee pudding at The Unir Coffee Senses, which I highly recommend. We also stopped at Ochanokosaisai Sannenzaka to pick up the Kyo-Rayu Furikake (chili oil rice topping).
After catching the beautiful sunset views, we headed to Yasaka Shrine. We loved walking through the shrine grounds, seeing the lanterns glow in the evening and in the nearby alleys, where the mix of traditional architecture, food stalls, and Kyoto charm made the whole area feel so atmospheric.
From there, we walked to Gion Tanto for our dinner. Walking through Gion and the smaller side streets honestly felt like stepping into another era. There was an hour-long wait at the restaurant, but it was all worth it for dishes like teppanyaki-style okonomiyaki, yakisoba, and crispy karaage.
Day 6: Arashiyama
We picked a quick breakfast at Flip Up! bakery, which is popular for its chewy bagels. Then we took a bus straight to Arashiyama. We started the morning at the famous Iwatayama Monkey Park, which definitely required a bit of a hike, but the panoramic views from the top and seeing monkeys roaming freely made it completely worth it.
From there, we walked across the iconic Togetsukyo Bridge, surrounded by beautiful river and mountain views that made Arashiyama feel so peaceful. We also stopped by the adorable Miffy Sakura Kitchen, which the kids absolutely loved, before heading to Tenryū-ji and the nearby Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. Walking through the towering bamboo grove really does feel magical.
After exploring Arashiyama, we took the bus back toward central Kyoto and had dinner at Chao Chao Gyoza, which turned out to be one of our favorite meals in Kyoto. The gyozas were absolutely incredible, with so many varieties to try, including delicious chicken and vegan options.
We finished the evening wandering through Nishiki Market. Then the kids had the best time exploring Hands Kyoto Store for stationery and little souvenirs. I also couldn’t resist picking up some beautiful Japanese ceramics from the market.
Day 7: Temples & Tea Ceremony
The next morning, we had breakfast at School Bus Coffee Bakers, a wonderful bakery next door to the hotel. Then we went to Fushimi Inari Taisha. Walking through the endless rows of vibrant red torii gates is magical. There’s something incredibly peaceful about wandering the forested pathways in the morning, with the gates stretching endlessly through the hills.
From there, we headed to a traditional tea ceremony experience, where they dressed us in beautiful kimonos before the ceremony began. The entire experience felt calm, elegant, and surprisingly informative — learning about the rituals, etiquette, and meaning behind every movement made us appreciate Japanese tea culture so much more.
After that, we treated ourselves to the unbelievably fluffy soufflé pancakes at Panel Cafe Kyoto, which quickly became the kids’ favorite food of the trip. Light, airy, and melt-in-your-mouth soft, they absolutely lived up to the hype.
In the afternoon, we visited Kiyomizu-dera, which was even more beautiful than we expected. The sweeping views over Kyoto, traditional streets nearby, and the stunning wooden temple architecture made it one of the most memorable spots in the city.
From there, we walked through the beautiful cobbled streets, and I found this amazing ceramics store ASAHI Tou’an Craft Shop, and I couldn’t resist buying a bunch of bowls and cups.
Then we stopped by Mochi Mochi to watch the famous mochi-pounding experience and try their chocolate mochi. We honestly weren’t sure whether it would live up to the hype, but it turned out to be such a fun experience — and the chocolate-filled mochi was delicious.
We wrapped up the day with dinner at Engine Ramen Kyoto, where the ramen was comforting and flavorful, the perfect ending to a packed Kyoto day.
Day 8-9: Osaka & Nara
We took the train the next morning to Osaka and stayed there for 2 nights – spent a day in Osaka and a day in Nara. It is also great to stay in Kyoto and do day trips from there.
Day 8: Osaka Castle & Shopping
Our Osaka day started with taking the train from Kyoto to Osaka, checking into our hotel, and then heading straight out to explore the city. For lunch, we stopped at Maze Cafe in Namba for a quick and satisfying meal before beginning the day’s sightseeing.
One of the highlights of the day was visiting Osaka Castle, which looked absolutely stunning, surrounded by greenery and water. The kids especially enjoyed exploring the museum and learning about Japan’s samurai past.
After that, we wandered through the lively Shinsaibashi shopping street, which had such a fun energy with endless shops, street food spots, and crowds everywhere. We also made a stop at UNIQLO Shinsaibashi, which turned into a much longer shopping break than we planned.
As evening approached, we headed into the chaos of Dotonbori, which truly feels like the heart of Osaka’s food scene. The bright lights, giant signboards, street food, and buzzing crowds make it one of the most memorable places.
We ended the night with dinner at Pivot Base Cafe, which, in our opinion, was mediocre compared to all the wonderful meals we had enjoyed so far.
Day 9: Nara & Dotonbori
We started the day with a quick breakfast at Sakimoto Bakery. The kids loved the crepe at Crepes, espresso, and AKICHI next to the bakery.
Then we took the train to Nara. The kids loved seeing the famous deer roaming around freely and trying to get them to bow before taking food.
We walked to Todai-ji temple, which has the massive Great Buddha statue inside the enormous wooden hall. The peaceful atmosphere, surrounded by roaming deer and beautiful temple grounds, made the entire visit feel both grand and calming.
We had to try Cremia’s Hokkaido milk soft serve, which absolutely lived up to the hype. We also tried the seasonal sakura latte at a local cafe. Then we walked around the Naramachi District checking out the mochi and other restaurants, and took the return train back to Osaka.
We went back to the chaos of Dotonbori and tried the famous Rikuro cheesecake. It was incredibly fluffy, jiggly, and cloud-like… but honestly? We thought it was just okay. Our family prefers the richer cheesecakes.
And finally, we ended the day with a wonderful dinner at Okonomiyaki Mizuno. They had vegan options for both okonomiyaki and yakisoba, and they were both absolutely amazing.
Day 10-12: Tokyo Fun and Shopping
The next morning, we took the train back to Tokyo and checked into the hotel.
Day 10: Shinjuku & Shopping
After coming back from Osaka to Tokyo, we decided to take things a little slower and started the day with some comforting food in Shinjuku. We had lunch at Mumbai Shinjuku, and after days of Japanese food, the warm curries and freshly baked naan felt extra satisfying. The kids especially loved the cheese-stuffed naan.
From there, we walked the Omoide Yokocho Memory Lane and explored the busy Nishi-Shinjuku shopping area. One of our main shopping goals was getting the popular Onitsuka Tiger shoes, and of course, we ended up browsing far more shops than we originally planned.
Of course, no Tokyo shopping day feels complete without a stop at Don Quijote. We spent quite a bit of time there picking up Japanese skincare, haircare, and all the little beauty products everyone recommends buying in Japan.
For dinner, we stopped at IPPUDO for a comforting bowl of ramen. We wrapped up the day by slowly walking back to the hotel through the glowing Tokyo streets, soaking in the city atmosphere one last time.
Day 11: Shrine, Cafes, & Ginza
One of our favorite days in Tokyo started with a filling breakfast at the hotel before heading to the peaceful Meiji Jingu Shrine. Walking through the towering forest pathways in the middle of such a busy city already felt special, but we also got incredibly lucky and witnessed a traditional Japanese wedding procession, which made the visit feel even more memorable and magical.
From there, we walked into the lively Takeshita Street Square in Harajuku, which was the stark opposite, with lots of crowds and energy. The kids loved exploring the Sanrio stores and cafés, and of course, we had to stop for crepes at the famous Marion Crepes, which absolutely lived up to the hype.
The next stop was fully planned by the kids — a visit to a capybara and cat café Capyneko, where they spent time petting, feeding, and playing with the animals. Later, we made our way to Ginza for some shopping and a snack stop at PEANUTS Cafe.
One stop we absolutely could not miss was Cafe Reissue, where they recreated my brother’s family dog from a photo as adorable 3D latte art. The coffee itself was excellent, but honestly, watching the little one’s reaction to seeing the cute dog latte art might have been the highlight of the entire café experience.
We ended the day with dinner at Jikasei MENSHO, where we had some of the best ramen of the trip. I’d honestly rank it right alongside Vegan Ramen UZU — rich, flavorful, comforting, and absolutely worth adding to any Tokyo food itinerary.
Day 12: Views & Ninja
For our final full day in Tokyo, we started the morning at the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, which has a free observation deck with absolutely stunning panoramic views of the city. It’s such an underrated Tokyo experience, and honestly, one of the best free things to do in the city.
From there, we headed to Ginza and spent time wandering through the beautiful shopping streets, browsing stores, and soaking in the lively atmosphere. One of the highlights was stopping at Ginza Sembikiya for their famous fruit parfaits and sandwiches. Everything felt so fresh, beautifully presented, and very uniquely Japanese.
We sneaked in a short visit to Akhihabara. Later in the evening, we made our way back to Shinjuku for a ninja and kabuki show that we had reserved ahead of time. Watching the live show on our last evening in Japan felt like such a fun and memorable way to experience a little more of Japanese culture before the trip ended.
After the show, we had dinner at Vegan Bistro Jangara. Honestly, this ended up being one of the few misses of the trip for us — we didn’t really enjoy the ramen there, especially after having such incredible ramen experiences elsewhere in Japan.
Before heading back for the night, we stopped once more at the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building area to watch the nighttime projection-mapping light show. Sitting there quietly, watching the lights dance across the building after such a packed trip, felt like the perfect calm ending to our final night in Tokyo. From there, we slowly walked back to the hotel, soaking in the city one last time before saying goodbye to Japan.
The next morning, we had a relaxing breakfast at the hotel and took the flight back to San Francisco.
Final Thoughts on Japan with Kids
As we boarded our flight home, we felt equal parts exhausted, grateful, and already nostalgic for the trip we had just experienced. Japan gave us so many unforgettable moments — from the bright energy of Tokyo, the peaceful beauty of Kyoto, and the relaxing mountain views of Hakone. Every city had its own personality, and together they created a trip that felt exciting, meaningful, delicious, and incredibly special for our family.
Thank you so much for following along on this adventure and for all the kind messages, recommendations, and excitement you shared. I hope this itinerary and our experiences help inspire your own Japan trip someday — and of course, I’ll keep sharing all the food, recipes, travel tips, and stories that connect us through travel and cooking wherever we go next.
